Brick and block work rewards patience and preparation. Once a brick is set in mortar, adjusting it is a messy ordeal, so getting your layout, mortar mix, and pattern planned before you start makes the difference between a clean, professional result and one you will want to redo in a few years. Whether you are laying a patio, building a garden wall, or adding a path, this guide gives you what you need to plan and execute the job right.
Not all bricks are interchangeable. Using the wrong type for a given application leads to spalling, cracking, and premature failure.
Standard modular bricks (roughly 3.5 x 2.25 x 7.5 inches nominal) are used for walls, planters, and raised beds. They are not designed for heavy foot traffic or freeze-thaw cycles when laid flat, so do not use them as paving units in cold climates. They can spall when moisture gets in and freezes.
Concrete pavers and clay pavers are engineered for horizontal use. They are denser and more durable than standard brick under foot traffic and vehicle loads. Clay pavers have natural color baked in and do not fade. Concrete pavers are more uniform in dimension, which makes installation slightly easier, and come in a wider range of colors and shapes. Either type works without mortar when set on a compacted gravel and sand base. This dry-set method is forgiving of minor adjustments and allows drainage between units.
Concrete masonry units are the workhorse of DIY garden walls, retaining walls, and outdoor structures. Standard 8x8x16-inch blocks are heavy, strong, and widely available. Decorative split-face blocks give a rough stone texture at a fraction of the cost of real stone. For retaining walls, use blocks specifically designed for that purpose. They have a setback angle built in and interlock for stability. Do not build a mortared retaining wall without professional design review; the loads involved can cause catastrophic failure if the wall is undersized or lacks proper drainage.
Mortar is not a single product. The letter designation tells you the strength and flexibility of the mix.
Type N is a medium-strength mortar with good workability and flexibility. It is the right choice for above-grade exterior walls, chimneys, and garden walls that are not under significant load. It handles freeze-thaw cycling better than stronger mixes because its slight flexibility allows small movement without cracking the masonry units themselves.
Type S is stronger and more water-resistant than Type N. Use it for below-grade applications, patios, and any masonry in contact with the ground or subject to soil pressure. It is the standard recommendation for brick pavers set in mortar and for outdoor steps.
Type M is the strongest mortar and is used for foundations, retaining walls, and load-bearing structures. It is harder and less flexible, which makes it appropriate where structural strength is paramount but not ideal for ordinary garden walls. If the structure moves even slightly, the rigid mortar cracks rather than flexing.
The pattern you choose affects both the look and the structural performance of the finished work.
Running bond is the most common pattern. Each row offsets by half a brick length from the row below, staggering the vertical joints. It is structurally strong because no continuous vertical joint runs through multiple courses. It is also the easiest pattern to lay and the most forgiving when cutting is needed at edges.
Herringbone sets bricks at 45- or 90-degree angles to each other in a zigzag pattern. It is popular for patios and paths because the interlocking diagonal arrangement distributes loads well across the surface. The 45-degree version requires a significant number of cut bricks at the perimeter. Plan for 15 percent waste rather than the standard 5 to 10 percent.
Basketweave pairs bricks in alternating horizontal and vertical pairs, creating a woven appearance. It works best with square pavers or bricks where the length is exactly twice the width, so the pattern closes evenly. It is a flat pattern with no structural interlocking, making it better suited for lightly trafficked patios and decorative paths than for driveways.
Standard brick coverage depends on the unit size and joint width. For a nominal 4x8-inch paver with a quarter-inch joint, you need approximately 4.5 bricks per square foot. Standard 4x8 concrete pavers cover about 4.5 units per square foot. For walls using standard modular brick with a 3/8-inch mortar joint, plan on about 7 bricks per square foot of wall face. Always add 5 to 10 percent for cuts and breakage; go to 15 percent for herringbone patterns or any irregular shapes. For mortar volume, a general rule is that one 70-pound bag of Type S mortar mix covers about 25 to 30 square feet of paving or roughly 20 to 25 standard brick joints in wall work. These are starting estimates. Mix slightly less than you think you need at first until you calibrate your work rate, since fresh mortar has a limited working time of 30 to 45 minutes.
Clean cuts require the right tool. A circular saw with a diamond blade works for straight cuts in clay pavers and CMU. An angle grinder with a diamond blade gives more control for curved cuts and tight spots. A brick splitter (available at most tool rental shops) is fast and clean for simple straight cuts in standard brick and pavers and produces less dust than a saw. Always wet-cut masonry whenever possible to control silica dust, which is a serious respiratory hazard. Wear a properly rated dust mask (N95 or better) even when wet cutting. The most common mistakes in brick work are: joints that are too thick or too thin (standard is three-eighths inch for wall brick, one-quarter inch for pavers), skipping a stable compacted base on patio work which leads to settling and rocking bricks, not striking joints before the mortar fully hardens, and setting bricks without pulling a string line for each course which causes wandering rows that are visually obvious in the finished product.
